A SOVIET OCTAGON BUILT OUTSIDE THE SWISS RULEBOOK
Produced during the early 1980s, this Raketa belongs to a period when Soviet watchmaking operated with its own visual language, industrial priorities and manufacturing infrastructure. Raketa—Russian for “rocket”—was established in 1961 to commemorate Yuri Gagarin’s first human spaceflight, but the factory behind it traces its history to the Imperial Peterhof Factory founded by Peter the Great in 1721. By the time this watch was made, that centuries-old institution had evolved into one of the Soviet Union’s major mechanical-watch producers. (Raketa Watch Factory)
The design is unusually architectural. A broad octagonal case surrounds a similarly faceted crystal, while four exposed bezel screws and contrasting black inserts give the watch the appearance of a miniature industrial instrument. Its champagne dial is divided into opposing textures: fine vertical grooves across the upper section and closely spaced horizontal lines below. Oversized Roman numerals at twelve and six, small gold-tone hour markers and the sharply framed day-date display create a composition that feels simultaneously formal, mechanical and distinctly Soviet. The Latin Raketa signature, English calendar and “MADE IN USSR” inscription suggest that this example was configured for export rather than the domestic Soviet market. (SOVIETALY™)
Inside is Raketa’s manually wound 2628.H, a 19-jewel day-date caliber introduced around 1980. It runs at a traditional 18,000 vibrations per hour and offers approximately 45 hours of power reserve. The movement uses a shock-protected balance and escape wheel, while three additional jewels support the calendar disc—an unexpectedly considered solution hidden beneath the dial. The date is advanced through Raketa’s unusual spring-loaded crown system, with each extended pull moving the display forward by one day. (17jewels.info - The Movement Archive)
On the wrist, the angular case has far more presence than a conventional round dress watch, yet the restrained champagne, silver and black palette keeps it wearable. The black leather strap reinforces the dark case accents and allows the unconventional geometry to remain the focus. Often known among collectors by descriptive nicknames such as the "Star Wars," “Gasket,” “Bolted Bezel” or simply “Octagon,” this is not a conventional luxury watch translated into Soviet form. It is an original piece of Soviet industrial design: practical, eccentric and mechanically self-reliant, with a character difficult to reproduce outside its particular place and time. A closely matching octagonal 2628.H example has likewise been documented as an unusual USSR-made Raketa from the 1980s. (Watch space)
Three points to note
Distinctive octagonal case with exposed bezel screws and faceted crystal
Soviet-made 19-jewel Raketa 2628.H manual-wind day-date movement
Early-1980s export configuration with Latin branding and English calendar
- Brand
- Raketa
- Reference
- 2628.H
- Year
- unknown
- Gender
- male
- Movement
- Mechanical Cal. 2628.H
- Function
- second, minute, day, date
- Case
- 32 mm - stainless steel
- Case back
- stainless steel
- Case excluding crown
- 32 mm
- Case with crown
- 34 mm
- Lug-to-lug
- 38 mm
- Thickness (crystal included)
- 11 mm
- Lug width
- 18 mm
- Dial
- Pale Champagne
- Strap / bracelet
- genuine leather, not original
- Wrist fit
- Fits wrists from 5.5 in to 7.25 in
- Buckle
- stainless steel, not original
- Crown
- original
- Crystal
- acrylic (condition: 8/10)
- Waterproof
- no
- Box
- no
- Paper
- no
- Includes
- watch, new aftermarket leather strap
Condition report
Dealer assessment
This Raketa is presented in good vintage condition. The dial remains attractive overall, with light dirt and minor discoloration consistent with age. The case is in notably strong condition, retaining its sharp octagonal form and showing only light signs of wear.
The exposed bezel screws show visible age, including some surface rust and oxidation. This adds to the watch’s vintage character but should be considered part of its condition.
The acrylic crystal is clear and in good overall condition. There is a very small crack at the lower corner, visible primarily from the side and not especially noticeable when viewing the watch straight on.
Overall, the watch presents well, with honest cosmetic aging and a distinctive, well-preserved case. No claims are made regarding water resistance.
25JAssessed in-house from the watch in hand. Full details on request.
